Research & Development for 3D & the Web

CG Society’s ‘Top Ten Texturing Tips’ (part 2)

by on Jun.25, 2010, under Texturing

banner02 CG Societys Top Ten Texturing Tips (part 2)

image02 01 CG Societys Top Ten Texturing Tips (part 2)
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heading02 01 CG Societys Top Ten Texturing Tips (part 2)
One way to create dirt has already been covered, and that’s photo overlays. Those are great for general wear and tear on your texture.If you want small specific details, you’ll need to use other techniques. Below are a two techniques I frequently use, one for dust and dirt, and one for rust.Dust and dirt can be done very quickly with a solid brownish layer and a layer mask. Simply put the dirt layer at the top of your stack, and paint with a low opacity and flow. You can spice things up by changing the blending mode, or to filter your dirt layer. (add noise for example).
This will break the surface somewhat if the dirt becomes too visible. Once again, subtlety is the key to success.

Rust is a bit more tricky. The thing with rust is that it’s very random and undefined. Other than the placement and how it leaks, there’s hardly any logic to it.

I used to handpaint rust, but it always had a bit of a cartoony look, and I was never able to get crispy rust that looks convincing and real.

That was until DennisPls shared his technique with me, which I’ve been using ever since. It’s basically almost identical to regular photo overlays, only here you only use a small part of the texture.
You clean the edges with a mask so that it blends nicely with your base texture. Matching scale is very important here.
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Good damage placement only requires one thing: logical thinking. If an area is likely to be hit by another object (green arrows), or by moving parts, then logically there will be some damage in that area.

That can be chipped paint, scratches, rust, etc. If an area is clear from being hit by an object (yellow arrows), then there will be a lot less damage to that area.

There is a sure chance that you’ll find dust and dirt in such an area. Also, areas that are rubbed frequently will show worn off paint, scratches and if they are metal they will shine more.
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This doesn’t only work for small borders. If you go big, the same rules apply.

The front of the forklift (1) is the area that will suffer the most, and will therefore have more damage than other parts.
The lower part of the side will stick out most, so the biggest damage will be done there. The wheels (3) don’t need any comments at all…

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heading02 05 CG Societys Top Ten Texturing Tips (part 2)
I hope that some of these points can help you with your textures, and that you learned something new.Don’t forget that they are just simple guidelines.
They are not ‘stick to’ rules or workflows.
I can only encourage you to try as many things out as possible.Because only by trying things out will you get a better understanding. Which can only lead to better and faster texturing.heading02 06 CG Societys Top Ten Texturing Tips (part 2)
Like many others, I started as a gamer, and soon wanted to build my own maps and levels.

The lack of the right props for my scenes bothered me a lot.
I touched base with Game-Artist.net and after two years we were adopted by CGSociety, and that’s where we are right now.

The main purpose for this article is to make a summation of all the comments that are frequently made at Game-Artist.net (and elsewhere, no doubt). It’s not the Holy Grail of Texturing, but it can help you out with issues that frequently occur, and are easy to fix.

Related links:
Jeroen Maton
CGPortfolio
Game-Artist.net
Discuss this article on CGTalk
:Texturing

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